Growing up, I longed for the days when I could wear makeup. My incessant begging led my mother and me to the Macy's makeup counter, where we left with a Clinique compact and a nearly clear lip gloss. I've been a faithful follower ever since.
While there have always been whispers of makeups harm to the skin, the issue of acne and fine lines aren't compelling enough reasons to curb consumers such as myself. However, more recent findings aren't as easy to ignore. Research published in the Journal of Environmental Science & Technology Letters discusses the inclusion of PFAS in makeup and what this means for its wearers. Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, PFAS, are man-made chemicals used in many household products such as nonstick pans, furniture, and stain removers. While PFAS in any capacity is harmful, applying makeup resting so close to the eyes, nose, and mouth increases the likelihood of ingestion. In becoming rudimentary ingredients in beauty products, researchers caution consumers on the lasting effects of these ingredients on our bodies and the world around us.
Researchers at Notre Dame screened over 200 cosmetic products from the U.S. and Canada. They found PFAS along with other harmful precursor compounds whose exposure is linked to liver disease, cancer, thyroid, and reproductive issues (EPA). Makeup categories racking up the highest amounts of these chemicals were products labeled long wear and waterproof (Whitehead et al., 2021). These chemicals have made their way into our makeup bags, working as stabilizers for quality control, texture consistency, and water resistance (Per and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS) in Cosmetics).
Its presence in makeup is especially alarming due to the nature of these chemicals being highly persistent. The longevity of PFAS is why it is often deemed 'forever chemicals,' creating a surplus of trace amounts that are cycled through, not out, of the environment (Whitehead et al.,2021). Further, the study uncovers a more significant issue, makeup brands' lack of disclosure and transparency. The existence of these chemicals is alarming, but excluding them from their ingredient list is another issue. Such discrepancy can occur due to the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook granting companies exemptions and generalizations regarding certain compounds and additives (Whitehead et al., 2021). Without proper labeling, the right to make educated decisions is revoked, making consumers blind buyers.
This oversight leaves room for government intervention. While the FDA states that it will continue to monitor the situation, no immediate nor meaningful action has occurred. The makeup industry has attempted to tackle people's rising wants through the emergence of clean beauty. Still, studies like this raise questions about what companies deem safe. More and more, it seems that the burden of proof falls on the shoulders of consumers. With hidden ingredients and a litany of acceptable unknown's clean beauty requires a level of investigation that many don't have the time for. As consumers and researchers alike continue to expect higher standards of care from companies, the landscape of the beauty industry may finally be forced to enact some change.
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