If you’ve been on the lookout for young new designers and inspiring sustainable collections, you’re gonna love this year's Hyères award winners. These new designers feel like a much needed breath of fresh air with their collections inspired by a women’s peace camp, soft toys, and a marriage of capitalism and Soviet times. Hyeres’ freewheeling, laid back atmosphere is “bon enfant” (all in good fun) according to Christian Louboutin. This energy comes across in the colorful, joyful designs of the young creatives they chose to present.
Hyères is an international fashion and photography festival directed by Jean-Pierre Blanc and held in Hyères, France. Since 1986, the festival has worked to support, promote, and celebrate the work of young creators in fashion, photography and accessories. It’s actually one of the oldest fashion competitions in the world. Every year, a jury choses 30 creatives (10 for each category) out of hundreds of applicants to present their collections in fashion shows and exhibits.
Sustainability, craftsmanship, and innovation were at the heart of this year's fashion collections. The designer finalists hailed from Finland, Taiwan, Latvia, Thailand, Switzerland, and the UK, all hoping to win the 20,000 euro grant to support their next creative project. The 10 collections were presented on a catwalk in an intimate showroom. All were judged on their submissions for prizes and grants such as the Mercedes-Benz Sustainability Prize, the Chloé Prize, and the 19M Chanel ‘métiers d'art’ Prize.
This year's big winner was Ifeanyi Okwadi, a 27 year old Saville Row-trained designer from London. His menswear collection ‘Take the Toys From the Boys’ was inspired by the Greenham Common Women’s Peace Camp, which protested against the installation of nuclear missiles in Berkshire in the 80s. His innovative take on menswear won over the judges with its social commentary, dual uses, structure, textiles, and detailed craftsmanship. Okwadi incorporated toy car brooches and patches based on sketches by the Scouting founder Lord Robert Baden-Powell which he sourced on eBay.
“I think it’s quite comical to have something stereotypically, by silhouette and design, intended for war, but also having a play of provocation and changed proportions and materials that add softness to it and create duality and contrast,” said Okwadi.
Sofia Ilmonen took home the Mercedes-Benz Sustainability Prize this year for her colorful collection titled ‘Same Same But Different’. The Finish designer is the first ever recipient of this award for her vegetable-dyed, modular designs that minimized fabric waste. Her collection featured Baroque sleeves, cold shoulders, brilliant colors, and billowing silhouettes. She described her collection as being “about modular transformable design which allows endless possibilities for modification with just a move of buttons.”
The Chloe Prize, which challenged the participants to create a sustainable look inspired by the brand, was awarded to Elīna Silina from Latvia. Her collection ‘For Sally’ was “a celebration of craftsmanship, colour and [her] ancestry.” Defined by flowing lines, deconstructed 80’s fashion elements, and handicrafts, Elina’s collection is bright, colorful and bold, like a happy childhood memory.
The imaginative, dream-like designs presented at the festival are a brilliant reminder that clothes are meant to be enjoyed. As Louise Trotter, creative director of Lacoste and president of the fashion jury, stated “there’s nothing more sustainable than clothes that you want to wear repeatedly for a long time.” Make sure to keep up with the finalists of Hyères because they are the future of sustainable fashion.
List of Hyères Finalists:
Ifeanyi Okwuadi
Elīna Silina
Rukpong Raimaturapong
Sofia Ilmonen
Mateo Velasquez
Mengche Chiang
Rukpong Raimaturapong
Laima Jurča
Venla Elonsalo
Arttu Åfeldt
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